Ecouterre » Fabrictionary

Khadi: A Handspun Cloth From India That Galvanized a Local Movement

Lea Bogdan — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 21:00:36 +0000

Photo by RaajMa

KHADI \ˈkä-dē\

n 1 a: A coarse cotton, wool, or silk hand-spun in India on a spinning wheel called a charkha. b: Versatile in its ability to be dyed with limitless natural colors and patterns. c: Can be spun in a range of thicknesses, from lightweight shirting to thick upholstery. 2 a: A symbol of a national pride movement, allegedly started by Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, aimed at boycotting foreign goods and promoting the country’s self-sufficiency. b: The official fabric used to create India’s flag, which features the charakha wheel at its center. 3: Used in some of the costumes for the Star Wars prequels, including Mace Windu’s cloak.

Laplam: A Recycled Plastic That Resembles Oversized Bubble Wrap

Lea Bogdan — Thu, 01 Dec 2011 20:00:45 +0000

LAPLAM \lä pläm\

n 1 a: A new material made from air-infused layers plastic—60 to 80 percent of which is recycled—with an appearance reminiscent of bubble wrap. b: Developed by a lab research team at Italian packaging manufacturer Tecnopack. c: Available in a range of saturated colors, the material is commonly used for furniture and women’s fashion accessories. d: Under the direction of Fabrizio Fattori, Laplam has been used for couture handbags, known as “Big Bubble Bags,” that are wildly popular in Italy’s metropolitan areas.

Cocona: Vegan-Friendly Outerwear Insulation Made From Coconut Husks

Lea Bogdan — Sat, 08 Oct 2011 12:00:53 +0000

COCONA\ˈkōˈkōnˈä\

n 1 a:Trademarked name for a lightweight, breathable fiber derived from coconut-husk waste discarded by the food-service industry. b: Reduced to charcoal, combined with recycled polyester, and spun to maximize its surface area for warmth retention and moisture wicking. c: Said to resist odors better than traditional polyester fill. 2: Used in Nau’s insular jacket, a two-layer, sealed-seam shell with a helmet-compatible hood that the Portland clothier describes as “made for the mountain.”

Sorona: A Versatile Performance Fiber Made From Corn

Lea Bogdan — Sat, 20 Aug 2011 12:00:46 +0000

SORONA\ˈsȯrˈōnˈä\

n 1 a: Sorona, DuPont’s trade name for poly(trimethylene terephthalate), is an extruded fiber that serves as a alternative to nylon 6 in apparel (swimwear, activewear, outerwear) and automotive, commercial, and residential carpeting. b. Contains 37 percent renewable agricultural feedstocks, in this case corn sugar. c. Said to use 30 percent less energy and release 64 percent fewer greenhouse gas emissions than nylon. d. Can be blended with other natural or synthetic fibers for colorfastness, wicking, and stain and wrinkle resistance without additional chemical treatments. e. Recyclable when used as a face fiber in carpet backing.

Zeugma: High-Performance, Moisture-Wicking Organic Cotton For Activewear

Lea Bogdan — Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:00:46 +0000

ZEUGMA \ˈzo͞ogmə\

n 1 a: A 95 percent organic-cotton textile that mimics the qualities of petroleum-based technical fabrics without synthetic chemicals or additives. b: Wicks away moisture, dries quickly, resists pilling, and stays colorfast but with the breathability of cotton, making it an apt choice for workout clothes and other activewear. c: Made with a proprietary spinning process that mechanically aligns and tightly interconnects cotton fibers to produce long, smooth filaments. 2: Named for a figure of speech in which a word applies to two others in different senses. 3: Found in yoga pants, tunics, and jumpsuits by Prancing Leopard, the first company to introduce Zeugma cotton to apparel.

Chiengora: Is Knitting With Dog Hair Doggone Good or Barking Mad?

Lea Bogdan — Wed, 25 May 2011 19:00:05 +0000

CHIENGORA \chē-ˈen-ˈgȯr-ə\

n. 1 a: A portmanteau of “chien” (French for dog) and “angora.” b: A soft, spun yarn—said to be up to 80 percent warmer than wool—made from the naturally shed undercoat of canines with hair typically longer than two inches. c: Current production methods are mostly limited to a low-volume, hand-crafted technique similar to traditional carding and spinning wool. c: Uses for the yarn include sweaters, and cold-weather accessories. 2: The subject of a book, Knitting With Dog Hair: Better a Sweater From a Dog You Know and Love Than From a Sheep You’ll Never Met, by Kendall Crolius and Anne Montgomery. 3: Spinners charge an average of $12 per ounce of dog-hair yarn, according to The Wall Street Journal; a custom-knit sweater can cost several hundred dollars.

Cupro: A Cellulose Fiber Made From Recovered Cotton Waste

Lea Bogdan — Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:00:28 +0000

A linen-cupro shirtdress from Donna Karan

CUPRO \¦k(y)üˈprō\

n. 1 a: A regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton linter (the ultrafine, silky fibers that stick to the seeds of the cotton plant after it’s been ginned) that has been dissolved in a solution of ammonia and copper oxide. b: It is similar to rayon, but breathes and regulates body temperature like cotton. c: Often used as a silk substitute, cupro is noted for its ability to create beautifully draped clothing, except it can be machine-washed and -dried. d: A European relative of Tencel, cupro is a hypoallergenic, antistatic fabric that is resistant to stretching out of shape at higher temperatures.

Bionic: A Rapper-Approved Fiber Made From Recycled Plastic Bottles

Lea Bogdan — Fri, 11 Mar 2011 20:00:27 +0000

Photos from Timberland’s Bionic Canvas collection

BIONIC YARN \bī-ˈä-nik ˈyärn\

n 1 a: A highly durable fiber composed of organic cotton wrapped around a core of recycled PET, a plastic commonly used for the production of soda bottles. b: Return Textiles Corporation—rapper Pharrell Williams is a key investor—produces spools of Bionic Yarn, which can be woven into a tough, water-repellant material that looks like traditional cotton canvas but dries quicker and is twice as abrasion-resistant. c: The fiber is being commercialized by clothing and footwear companies such as Moncler, TopShop, and Timberland.

Tencel C: A Shellfish-Derived Fiber With Skin-Renewing Properties

Lea Bogdan — Sun, 27 Feb 2011 13:00:52 +0000

TENCEL C \ˈten ˈsil ˈsē\

n. 1 a: A fabric by Lenzing that combines Tencel (a trademarked name for lyocell) and chitosan, a naturally replenishable biopolymer derived from shells of mollusks. b: Purports to offer cosmetic benefits by hydrating and renewing cells, resulting in healthier, less wrinkled, and faster-healing skin. c: Naturally inhibits bacterial growth, accepts dyes, and is machine washable (50 times or more without losing its cosmetic properties, according to Lenzing). d: Used in home textiles, bedding, and active apparel.

Tapa: Handmade Cloth Made From the Bark of A Mulberry Tree

Bridgette Meinhold — Sat, 27 Nov 2010 13:00:05 +0000

Photo by Galen Frysinger

TAPA \ tah-pah \

n 1 a: Natural paper-like eco-textile from the South Pacific created from beating the inner bark of a mulberry tree. b: Paper-like in texture, the fabric is colored with natural dyes and painted with tribal designs and then used as decorations, wall-hangings, and even wedding and ceremonial costumes. c: Native cultures in Fiji, Tonga, Samoa, and other Polynesian islands still hand-make tapa and use it in their everyday life, and some designers now are even using the textile to create more traditional clothing.

Crailar Organic Fibers: A New, Eco-Friendly Spin on Cotton

Abigail Doan — Sun, 13 Jun 2010 12:00:16 +0000

CRAILAR \ ˈkrā lär \

n. 1 a: Organically certified fiber derived from natural bast fibers (such as hemp and flax), which are responsibly treated with an “enzymatic bath” and then spun into soft, white fibers similar to organic cotton. b: Touted as the next affordable and sustainable stand-in for conventional cotton, with the added bonus of tensile strength for use in textile, industrial, energy, medical, and composite material applications. c: Named after the town of Craik, Saskatchewan, this eco-textile initiative is also supported by the National Research Council Canada. A joint partnership with Hanes is likely to make it a household name for apparel knit products globally.

Ahimsa: Cruelty-Free “Peace Silk” That Makes for Good Karma

Abigail Doan — Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:00:18 +0000

Photo by Aurora Silk Yarns

AHIMSA \ə-hĭm’sä’ \

n. 1 a: A Sanskrit term meaning to do no harm—literally translated as “the avoidance of violence”—or in the context of silk-fiber production, the ethical treatment of mulberry-eating silkworms. b: In lieu of boiling the silk cocoon to prematurely release strands of filament-like fiber, Ahimsa silk is extracted only after a metamorphosing worm has emerged from its cocoon, allowing it to complete an entire life cycle unharmed. c: A luxurious, airy, and soft-to-the-touch alternative to conventional silk, popular with the enlightened eco-fashion designers Bahar Shahpar, Bodkin, Ivana Basilotta, Minna, Mr. Larkin, and Enamore.

O-Wool: Certified-Organic Wool for the Eco-Fashion Flock

Abigail Doan — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 12:00:46 +0000

Photo by The Purl Bee

O-WOOL \ō wu̇l \

n. 1 a: U.S. Department of Agriculture-certified organic wool yarn and fabric by The Vermont Organic Fiber Company. b: Requires certified-organic livestock feed and forage; the prohibition of synthetic hormones, genetic engineering, and pesticides; and chemically restricted fiber processing. c: The wool of choice for eco-fashion designers such as Bodkin, Bahar Shahpar, Deborah Lindquist, Susan Woo, Ekovaruhuset, FIN, and Elena Garcia.

Cork: A Sustainable Fabric With Real Bark

Jasmin Malik Chua — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 12:00:17 +0000

Photo by Cork Boutique

CORK \ˈkȯrk\

n. 1 a: An impermeable, buoyant, fire-resistant material that is stripped from the bark of the cork oak every nine years. (The tree has an average life expectancy of 200 years.) b: Used in flooring, upholstery, clothing, accessories, and, of course, wine stoppers. c: A strong case for the conservation of cork oak landscapes, which support remarkable levels of forest biodiversity, including endangered species such as the Iberian Lynx, the Iberian Imperial Eagle, and the Barbary Deer.

S.Cafe: Clothes Made From Used Coffee Grounds

Jasmin Malik Chua — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 12:00:18 +0000

Photo by deapeajay

S.CAFE \ˈes ka-ˈfā\

n. 1 a: A fabric that Singtex Industries in Taiwan knits or weaves using waste coffee grounds. (A single cup of coffee can yield two shirts.) b: Said to dry quickly, protect against UV rays, and neutralize odors. c: Meets Swiss Bluesign standards for sustainable fabrics.

+ S.Cafe

SeaCell: Fabric Made From Seaweed, Fit for a Mermaid

Jasmin Malik Chua — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 01:01:32 +0000

Photo by Thomas Roche

SeaCell \ˈsē ˈsel\

n. 1 a: A variant of lyocell, SeaCell is made by combining cellulose with a small percentage of seaweed. b: Boasts a litany of health claims, including stress reduction, detoxification, the exchange of minerals and vitamins between fiber and skin, and a “complete sense of well-being.” c: The subject of controversy when the New York Times reported that the lab tests it had commissioned found no seaweed in a Lululemon shirt made of VitaSea, which was made of SeaCell. The yoga-apparel company disputed the Times’ findings with its own tests, but it agreed to remove any unsubstantiated therapeutic or performance claims at the request of Canada’s Competition Bureau.

Piña Fiber: A Resilient Plant for Exotic Tastes

Abigail Doan — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 16:00:06 +0000

Photo by Mark Aldane Tumang

PIÑA FIBER \ pēn-yə fī-bər\

n. 1 a: Long, fine, lustrous fibers obtained from the leaves of pineapple plants. (The plants are typically cultivated in Hawaii, the Philippines, Indonesia, India, and the West Indies.) b: Resilient, strong fibers often used for sheer, silky fabrics, ropes, twine, and paper. c: Piña cloth is wear-resistant and easy to clean, making it an ideal eco-textile for clothing, accessories, and home-design solutions. Eco-couture designers and the royals of the Phillipines swear by its luxe, soft qualities and use it to make the traditional Barong Tagalog embroidered ceremonial garment.

Lenpur: A Fabric That Lets Trees Hug You Back

Jasmin Malik Chua — Sat, 12 Sep 2009 00:41:11 +0000

Photo by Chad Miller

LENPUR \ˈlen-ˈpər\

n. 1 a: A fiber made from the pulp of sustainably cultivated white fir wood. b: Has an exceptionally soft weave that feels similar to cashmere. c: Used in clothing, underwear, socks, and home accessories, Lenpur is said to have thermoregulatory, odor-eliminating, and absorbent properties.

Tencel: A Soft and Silky Alternative to Cotton

Yuka Yoneda — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 13:56:19 +0000

Photo by Yarmee on Etsy

TENCEL \ˈten ˈsil\

n. 1 a: The trademarked brand name for lyocell, a natural cellulosic fiber with excellent moisture absorption and an exceptionally silky hand. b: A dyeable, wrinkle-resistant material that can be blended with a variety of other fibers, including cotton, rayon, polyester, silk, hemp, linen, and wool. c: Fabricated using a closed-loop process that doesn’t require bleach, although some manufacturers may use chemical processes, enzyme baths, and dyes that may or may not be environmentally sound.

Milkofil: Milk Fiber That Does a Bodice Good

Yuka Yoneda — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 19:48:27 +0000

MILKOFIL \ˈmilk-ˈō-ˈfil\

n. 1 a: A silk-like fabric by made from casein, the white, odorless protein from which cheese is made. Made by Maclodio Filati, Milkofil is said to have naturally antibacterial properties and perhaps even boost circulation. It does, however, take about 100 pounds of skim milk to make 3 pounds of milk fiber, a likely reason why it isn’t more widespread. b: Can be blended with other fabrics like cotton, silk, and cashmere to give it different characteristics.

Ingeo: A Corn-Based Fiber That’s Simply A-Maize-ing

Yuka Yoneda — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 18:53:39 +0000

Photo by Moral Fervor

INGEO \ˈin-ˌjē-ō\

n. 1 a: A manmade fiber by Natureworks (a subsidiary of Cargill Dow) derived from fermented cornstarches, rather than petroleum. Applications range from bio-plastics for packaging, electronics, casings, and films, as well as spun or filament fibers for apparel, home textiles, and nonwovens. b: May or may not contain genetically modified corn.

Salmon Leather: A Fishy Fabric, But Will Designers Take the Bait?

Jasmin Malik Chua — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 04:03:26 +0000

Photo by ES Salmon Leather

SALMON LEATHER \ˈsa-mən ˈle-thər\

n. 1 a: A dyeable textile made from salmon skin—a byproduct of the fish processing industry that usually gets tossed into the landfill—using chemicals that are less toxic than those for tanning mammal hides because fish scales are easier to remove from skin than hair. (Note: no new salmon is killed expressly for its skin.) b: A resilient fabric that is stronger than most land leathers—and does not smell like fish. c: A reliable, affordable source of “sea leather” used by companies such as ES Salmon Leather, One October, Unnurwear, and Skini London in clothing, accessories, furnishing, home decor, and even bikinis.

Salmon leather was recently used in the form of die-cut paillettes by fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi to create an entire ensemble (jacket, dress, open-back shoes) for the Nature Conservancy’s “Design for a Living World” exhibition at the Cooper-Hewitt Museum in New York City.

Banana Fabric: Cast-Off Fiber Spun Into Gold

Abigail Doan — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 12:00:33 +0000

Photo by Barneys New York/Earth Pledge FutureFashion

BANANA FABRIC \ bə-ˈna-nə ˈfa-brik\

n 1 a: A Southeast Asian cloth derived from the cast-off stems and leaves of the banana tree. b: The coarse outer layer is commonly used for woven tablecloths, cushions, seating, and curtains, while the inner, silky layer is ideal for fine saris, kimonos, and eco-couture designs like the Doo-Ri dress above. c: “Jusi,” or banana fabric/fiber is popular in Nepalese artisan workshops for the production of handcrafted, knotted rugs.