I work in the textile industry for a while. I have been selling fabric for years and therefore I’m specialized in dyeing stuff. Since I have moved to China, I had countless meetings with the big players in the garment industry, trying to explain to them that the fabric they were using for their production was not up to standard and that one day or another this could have terrible consequences. The answer was always the same: “we moved to Asia to have competitive costs and this is our target, if Chinese supplier can give us the fabric at this price, we don’t care”. You have to understand that most of the time these big companies are not training their purchaser and/or their merchandisers the right way. These guys are doing a 9 to 5 job and are not aware of the consequences of such issue. Plus their head office are putting tremendous pressure on them to keep the cost lower and lower every year no matter what. On top of that, you can add the lack of professionalism of the people working for this companies. I mean by that, that often the bribes, the close relation doesn’t help to have the correct product. I would say, also, that the main reasons is the greed of the big companies. They are asking prices, that every professional, in his right mind would tell you that are impossible to match if you want to keep the quality. So, yes, these big companies know what they are doing and I’m truly thanksful that this matter came up to the surface. I have, many times, and I still do, informed my close friends and relatives to avoid such brands as Zara (and all Inditex group), H&M (being the worst), C&A, and all American brands (Gap, TMW, Target, Wallmart, Levis, CK, Ralph Lauren, Perry Ellis….).

Only few brands are not cheating on the quality and most of them are from Germany due to the oekotex 100 standard which they require for each batch of dyed fabric.

It all started when they came to Asia to have lower costs. Only the Germans and few other companies decided to only take advantage of the labor cost but they required the same quality of fabric as they had in Europe. The others, the greed pushed them to take advantage of the labor cost and cheap fabric that is not up to standard. In Europe the problem doesn’t exist as dyeing house are playing fair and the control is systematic. In China, they still dye with sulfur dyes when in Europe the basics are reactive / disperse.

If you want to see the truth from your very own eyes, go in any Zara shop, buy a garment in black color, and test the linings. There are plenty of independent lab (STR, ITS, SGS…) who can test it for you. Body lining, pocketing lining are always the worst when it comes to quality. And so far we are only talking about chemical issues, but you have to know that they are also a lot of physical issues (not harmful but you are being deceived on the quality of what your buying). I think everybody realized that garment were lasting longer, much longer before.

I also would like to add that the garment business is complex. For instance, let’s take the Tommy Hilfiger brand. Some of their suits are made to be sold in Europe and these garment are top notch. It seems the merchandiser team is doing a great job with ethics. But the same brand, belonging to the same company produces garments to be sold in the US and produced in Asia, are simply just a piece of garbage. Easy to see, if u can compare, it will just blow your mind away. So even within the same company you have issues to control quality….

Thx for the opportunity

I have embraced the immergence of natural dyes used in the apparel and home furnishings arena…but with any fabric dyeing process, much water is consumed to properly remove all excess dye. However, water of questionable quality is often used in the dying process in many countries, and may contain toxins to begin with. This extinguishes any good that natural dyes bring to the table. This should be a concern.

I am convinced that the consumer, if educated and conscientious about issues good health and the future of our planet, holds great lobbying power. Too often, wrongs are not righted until it is felt in the pocketbook.