Van Rees creates each textile herself using both remnant thread from a nearby knitting factory and repurposed fabrics she teases apart for yarn. Her process involves little cutting or sewing. Instead, van Rees weaves each fiber directly into the desired shape. “I don’t have to weave a square and then cut my pattern pieces,” she tells Ecouterre. “I can weave in the shape of the garment.” The resulting pieces are completely seamless, leaving no production-floor waste behind.
The extruding blocks turn otherwise traditional ladies’ suiting into “something more subversive and architectural.”
The extruding blocks turn traditional ladies’ suiting into “something more subversive and architectural,” she says. “I think the impact is much more powerful because it’s a clash of something very rich and traditional with something modern and crazy,” van Rees adds. Often, the cubes are attached to pleats, creating a fluidity of movement in an otherwise static configuration.
Unsurprisingly, the young designer is already a critical darling. Following the footsteps of avant-garde designers like Ada Zandition and Iris van Herpen (she interned for the latter), van Rees will make her debut at London Fashion Week next month as one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s “Ones To Watch.”
Keep this one in your sights.