Few things in fashion add up, like pairing denim cutoffs with Uggs, wearing knee-high boots with peep-toe cutouts, or donning a sleeveless peacoat jacket in the dead of winter (we really don’t get that last one). Issey Miyake’s new “132 5. Issey Miyake” line, however, has our number. Based on origami and the concept of regeneration, the statement garments lie folded flat like a series of collapsed geometric landscapes. Pulled up and unfolded, however, each compressed form gracefully resolves into a three-dimensional shirt, jacket, skirt, or dress that can be worn in myriad—if acutely angled—ways.
The secret to 132 5, which was conceived by Miyake’s Reality Lab, lies in its mathematical elegance. The clothing is first designed using a software program, devised by computer scientist Jun Mitani, that generates intricate three-dimensional shapes from a single flat sheet of paper. Once Miyaki and his team replicate the forms in recycled PET polyester, they examine ways of refolding the garments into flat, planar shapes through the incorporation of cut-lines.
The clothing is first designed using a program that generates 3D shapes from a single sheet of paper.
It’s this multidisciplinary process, in fact, that lends the collection its name. The number “1” refers to the single piece of cloth used to make each item, “3” to indicate its three-dimensional shape, and “2” to the fact that it can be flattened two-dimensionally. The single space denotes the time between the completion of the folded form and the moment someone puts it on, while “5” signifies the concept’s multiple permutations.
132 5. Issey Miyake is set to debut in Japan this fall.