“You have no choice—whether you are the creative director or a designer on the team. You also don’t have time to really analyze and think about what you’re doing. You have to be a machine of ideas that produces new things every three months. The whole industry runs so fast because we need to deliver something new to the store every two weeks so the client isn’t bored. They don’t want to wait for six months, so we have the pre-collection, the pre-pre-collection, and the main collection, which nobody is buying, so it all just ends up on a sales rack.
“The creative part needs to be much more in advance of the market, and to offer something that is not out there, to challenge it and to make the market want it.
“The whole system just doesn’t work anymore. This whole vicious circle turns and turns at a very fast speed and kills both the creativity and the business. Most of them survive on making bags and perfume at the end of the day. Ready-to-wear, which is the platform and the base of fashion, is really in the shadow today, with a few exceptions.”
—Demna Gvasalia, head of Vetements and newly appointed artistic director of Balenciaga, speaking to Business of Fashion on why he, like Burberry and Tom Ford, is abandoning the current fashion calendar.